- 7-10 gallon brew pot
- 7-10 gallon hot liquor brew pot
- 10 gallon (42 Qt.) cooler with false bottom
- 6.5 gallon fermentor with airlock (brew bucket or carboy)
- Wort chiller or a large tub for an ice bath to cool brew pot
- Long spoon or paddle (we recommend a stainless spoon if possible)
- Hydrometer or refractometer (for taking gravity readings)
- Cleanser and sanitizer (we recommend PBW for a cleanser and Star-San for a sanitizer)
- Double mesh strainer and funnel (optional)
- 6.5 gallon bottling bucket with spigot
- Siphon, tubing and bottling wand (we recommend an Auto-Siphon)
- 50-52 amber 12 oz beer bottles and bottle capper
5 GALLON ALL GRAIN KIT BREWING INSTRUCTIONS – THIS EXAMPLE RECIPE IS FOR OUR PINEAPPLE EXPRESS IPA
TIPS FOR SUCCESS:
- Filter your water with an activated carbon filter. If you are on a municipal water supply, the carbon filter will remove chlorine. Also add ½ of a Campden Tablet (Potassium Metabisulphite) to remove chloramine.
- If possible, heat up all of your strike and sparge water together (8-10 gallons) in the hot liquor brew pot.
- Strike water ratio should be 1.25 quarts per pound of grain.
Example: 10 lbs of grain x 1.25 = 12.5 quarts. 12.5 quarts / 4 = 3.125 gallons of initial strike water.
- Calculating strike water temperature:
- It is a good idea to preheat your mash tun prior to mashing in. Add a ½ gallon of hot water and put the lid on your mash tun. After 3-4 minutes, drain the water out and begin filing with your strike water.
- A slow sparge is the key to mash efficiency! It should take at least 60 minutes of sparging to accumulate 6-6.5 gallons of wort in your brew kettle.
-Keeping your grain inside your house prior to brewing will help prevent the temperature from dropping too much when initially mashing in.
-We typically plan on losing 15 ºF (8 ºC) when we mix the strike water with the grain in our cooler. Each system differs, depending on what type of vessel you are using for a mash tun.
Example: If you are trying to achieve a 152 ºF (66.5 ºC) mash temp, your strike water needs to be 167 ºF (75 ºC).
- In your mash tun, add 4.4 gallons of water that is 167 ºF (75 ºC). We established this number from the calculations mentioned above.
14 x 1.25 = 17.5
17.5 / 4 = 4.38 (rounded to 4.4 gallons for strike water)
- Mix in the grain by stirring vigorously making sure there are no clumps or dough balls that have formed. Dough balls will greatly reduce mash efficiency as the dry spots will not allow enzymatic conversion to take place.
- Your temp should have dropped to 150-152 ºF (65.5-66.5 ºC) once the grain has been added. There are a number of external factors that can effect the final temp – i.e. outside temp, grain temp, etc. If you are a little on the warm side you can add some cool water (not too much!) to the mash tun or stir the mash vigorously to cool it down.
- Keep the mash temp between 150-152 ºF (65.5-66.5 ºC) for 60 minutes. During this time enzymes in the grain will convert the starches into sugars that the yeast will metabolize during fermentation.
- While the mash process is taking place, heat the sparge water in your hot liquor tank to 170 ºF (76.5 ºC).
- After the 60 minute mash has ended, you are going to run 168-170 ºF (75.5-76.5 ºC) water through the grain bed while opening the valve on your mash tun to allow the wort to run out into your boil kettle. However, before you do this, you are going to want to vorlauf (recirculate) the mash to set the grain bed. This will make the mash act as a filter to keep grain particulate matter from entering the boil kettle. To vorlauf, use a pitcher to drain wort out of the mash tun and gently pour it back over the top of the mash. You will need to do this 8-10 times until the wort appears fairly bright with little to no grain particulate.
- You will want to collect 6.5 gallons of wort for your boil kettle. You will need to run/add 3-4 gallons of 170 ºF (76.5 ºC) water through your mash tun to achieve the 6.5 gallons of wort for the boil. As mentioned above, the key to good efficiency is a slow sparge. Set your flow rate so that the sparging process takes approximately 1 hour.
- Once you have collected 6.5 gallons of wort in the brew kettle, you can ignite the flame on your burner and bring the wort to a boil.
- You have now completed your mash and can treat the rest of the brew/boil as you would for an extract batch of beer.
- Once the wort has come to a boil, start a timer for 60 minutes and follow the hop schedule for the recipe.
- 60 MINUTES LEFT IN THE BOIL: Add 0.5 oz of Citra hop pellets.
- 30 MINUTES LEFT IN THE BOIL: Add 1 oz of Amarillo hop pellets.
- 15 MINUTES LEFT IN THE BOIL: Add 0.5 oz of Citra hop pellets and the Whirlfloc tablet. If you are going to be using an immersion chiller post boil to chill the wort, add it to your boil kettle at this time as well to sanitize it.
- 5 MINUTES LEFT IN THE BOIL: Add 1 oz of Amarillo hop pellets.
- 2 MINUTES LEFT IN THE BOIL: Add 1 oz of Amarillo and 1 oz of Citra hop pellets.
- Once the boil has ended, turn the burner off and remove the pot from the hot burner. Use your wort chiller to bring the wort down to 70 ºF (21 ºC). If you do not have a wort chiller, you will need to submerge the pot in cool water with ice to bring the temp down to 70 ºF (21 ºC). Using a sanitized spoon, gently stir the wort to create a “whirlpool” effect. This will cool the wort more rapidly and help settle trub (hop particles and coagulated proteins) to the center of the boil pot.
- Once the wort is cool, you will want to take the original gravity reading of your wort with a hydrometer. The original gravity of this beer should be approximately 1.062 – 1.066. There are a few factors that can affect this including boil evaporation rate, gallons of wort in the fermentor, temperature, etc.
- After taking a gravity reading, transfer the wort to your primary fermentor. Try to leave behind as much of the trub as you can. We recommend pouring your wort through a double mesh strainer to filter out as much as possible.
- Rock the primary fermentor back and forth vigorously for 1 minute to agitate the wort. This will dissolve oxygen in the wort which will help the yeast during fermentation.
- Pitch the yeast onto the wort and seal your fermentor with the lid/bung and an airlock. The airlock will need to be filled half way with sanitizer solution to keep unwanted yeast or bacteria from getting inside the fermentation vessel.
- Let the beer ferment for 10-14 days until the beer reaches the final gravity. It normally takes 12-24 hours for the beer to start fermenting but occasionally it can take a little over 24 hours.
- You should notice activity in the airlock for the first few days and activity will diminish as time progresses. Do not worry if your airlock stops bubbling 3-4 days into fermentation. We recommend letting it go a full 10-14 days before moving the beer to the bottling bucket or an optional secondary fermentor. Taking the beer off the yeast too soon can lead to off flavors in the beer as the yeast will clean up after itself and refine the beer after the first few days of fermentation.
- FINAL GRAVITY: Approximately 1.014 – 1.018
DRY HOPPING (OPTIONAL):
- For this recipe, you can transfer the beer to a secondary fermentor and add 1 oz of Amarillo and 1 oz of Citra hop pellets for dry hopping. This will add additional hop aroma to the beer.
- Let the beer sit in the secondary for 5-7 days before bottling.
You will need 2 cases of 12 oz amber pop top beer bottles (24 bottles per case and no twist off cap bottles). We recommend having an extra 6 pack of bottles on hand as the 5 gallons of beer typically yields 50-52 bottles.
NOTE: Do not use growlers or large glass jugs to bottle. They cannot take the pressure that is created in the carbonation process and there is a high risk of them exploding.
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